Hiking in Garrapata State Park

Garrapata State Park is located on the California coast, just south of Point Lobos State Reserve and Carmel Highlands on Highway 1. It is an unassuming park, a model of modesty. It offers one of the central coast's most scenic hikes, but doesn't have a single sign along the highway bragging about its presence. A metal barn, an unmarked turnout, and row of cypresses are the only clues a potential visitor has of its existence.

Luckily, I spotted those clues, which saved me from the miles of searching and backtracking I was expecting. It was cool and breezy morning on Friday and I was glad I had worn my long-sleeve hiking shirt. I also had my windbreaker tucked in my backpack just in case the wind picked up at the top of Doud Peak, my intended destination.

After suiting up (putting on boots, sunscreen, and a hat), I hopped across the highway to take photos of the ocean before starting up the Rocky Ridge Trail, past the metal barn that would be a point of reference for the first half of the hike.

It is a strenuous six-mile roundtrip trek to Doud Peak, named after Francis Doud, who operated a ranch on the land from the 1890s to the 1950s. The climbing began almost immediately and so did the views.

I was so distracted by the photo opportunities that I hiked a quarter mile before realizing I had left my hiking poles on top of the car trunk. After thirty seconds of Dobby-like self-flagellation, I turned around and ran to get them.

Five minutes later, I was back at the same spot, sweaty, slightly out of breath, and wondering why I had worn a long-sleeve shirt. As luck would have it, the poles I retrieved would prove to be invaluable later.

For the first two miles, the steep trail climbed through coastal scrub. I kept a slow, steady pace and took several photo breaks along the way. It was scary how fast the barn shrank. One moment it was life-sized; the next moment it was O scale.

At an overlook with a bench embedded in rock, I took a short snack break. The sound of highway traffic had finally disappeared, and it was replaced by the call of sea lions and the occasional cry of a circling falcon. It would have been the perfect place to read and gaze at the horizon if it weren’t for the gnats and flies buzzing about.

Eventually, the coastal scrub gave way to grassland and the steep uphill climb became a stroll over rolling hills. Because the park doesn’t contain a single sign, I initially thought I was at the peak, but then I noticed the trail continued east until it terminated at an unremarkable looking hill that was slightly taller than the hill I was standing on.

I trekked to the top of the taller hill, which I’m fairly certain is Doud Peak. From the top, I could see Monterey...

...and the tip of Carmel.

By now, it was early afternoon and the wind was picking up. I took it as a sign to begin my descent.

I retraced my steps until I reached an unmarked branch in the trail, which is the southbound leg of the Rocky Ridge Trail that takes hikers to the Soberanes Canyon Trail that loops back to the trail head.

Soberanes Canyon is named after the family that owned the area before the Douds. According to the park brochure, the Soberanes were ranchers who were famous for their hospitality and musical talents.

The branch proved to be extremely challenging. Instead of providing hiker-friendly switchbacks, the trail’s designer had chosen to use a more direct route. The first half of my descent felt like I was sliding down a bobsled chute. The second half felt like I was charging down a slalom course. My hiking poles saved me on several occasions as I stumbled and staggered the hill.

Passing through the tree canopy near the canyon floor was like entering a different park altogether. The previous hours had been spent in a dry and exposed environment. Suddenly, I was in a wet, well-shaded, and secluded trail.

Although it didn’t offer the magnificent views of the Rocky Ridge Trail, the path along the Soberanes Creek was my favorite part of the hike. The creek and the redwoods created a peaceful environment.

The trail back to the coast was an easy one. The ocean soon came into view again and I got a closer look at the cactuses dotting the hillside that I had seen from afar at the beginning of the hike.

If you are near Carmel and want a hearty workout with some beautiful views of the ocean and the coast, I would highly recommend Garrapata. If you prefer an easier hike, the park has that, too. Try the Soberanes Canyon Trail or the Soberanes Point Trail, a two-mile loop located on the ocean side of the highway.

You can see a few more photos from the hike here.